TRAVEL | ISLANDS UNTOUCHED
THE CARIBBEAN BEYOND THE CROWDS
TRAVEL | ISLANDS UNTOUCHED
THE CARIBBEAN BEYOND THE CROWDS
You’ve seen the postcard version of the Caribbean: glittering seas fringed with white sand beaches and palm trees leaning just so. But step beyond the rows of identical sunloungers and a quainter, quieter Caribbean comes into view. For travellers unafraid to stray from the beaten path, these islands, untouched by mass tourism, feel richer than luxury ever could.
Words by Georgia Austin..
MONTSERRAT
Montserrat’s landscape tells a vivid story of both devastation and resilience. Dubbed the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean’ for its verdant hills and Irish heritage, life in this British Overseas Territory was forever changed by the eruption of Soufrière Hills volcano in 1995, which buried the capital, Plymouth, and rendered the south of the island an exclusion zone. A modern-day Pompeii, guided tours of the abandoned streets offer glimpses of rooftops peeking above layers of mud and ash.
Despite the devastation of the South, the North thrives. Black-sand beaches fringe the coast, backed by volcanic peaks and rolling emerald hills. Hiking trails wind through the Centre Hills rainforest, where birdwatchers seek out the rare Monserrat Oriole – the distinctive, yellow-breasted national bird. Offshore, divers descend into volcanic seascapes, while on land quad bikers tear along coastal tracks.
The villages are alive with culture and flavour. On Fridays, locals ladle out steaming bowls
of the national dish, Goat Water – a smoky goat stew, simmered over a woodfire and rooted in Irish tradition – and throughout the year, festivals – from a two-week St Patrick’s Day to a year’s end Carnival – see the community come together and celebrate. This vibrancy is especially poignant against the backdrop of destruction in the south and underscores the determination of Montserratians to keep forging ahead.
ANEGADA
Anegada is a castaway’s paradise in the British Virgin Islands. Rising only 28 feet above sea level, this coral atoll’s flat landscape contrasts starkly with its mountainous neighbours.
Offshore, the largest barrier reef in the Caribbean – which has wrecked over 300 ships – protects the white sand beaches from ocean swells and creates calm shallows, excellent for swimming and snorkelling.
Loblolly Bay and Cow Wreck Beach, on the north shore, are often ranked among the world’s top beaches. Places to bask in the sun, beachcomb along white sands and sway the day away in a hammock, these beaches are the true essence of Caribbean relaxation.
An island curiosity, the Anegada Conch Mounds are a testament to the island’s history of fishing. These jagged man-made hills are composed entirely of thousands upon thousands of discarded conch shells, built up over generations.
After a day of exploring, sitting down to a feast of Anegada lobster, grilled right in front of you
and served dripping with garlic butter, is a must. It’s an unforgettable experience that Perfectly encapsulates this low-key island, where all roads lead to the beach.
CORN ISLAND
Fifty miles off Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast, the Corn Islands – Big Corn and Little Corn – remain one of the Caribbean’s best-kept secrets. While Big Corn’s beaches stretch wide and pristine, it’s Little Corn that captures the hearts of those who reach its shores. A car-free island, there are only sandy, palm-lined footpaths leading between brightly coloured wooden homes to the coast.
Spend a lazy afternoon sunbathing and swimming at picturesque Otto Beach or take a guided tour to snorkel or dive the north and east reefs to see rays, turtles and flourishing coral gardens.
At the end of a tranquil day, settle in to watch sunset with a rum punch in hand, before indulging in a fresh seafood dinner under a night sky brimming with stars.
Daily life here is defined by pure coastal simplicity: the flavours of fresh coconut and lobster, the rhythms of reggae drifting from a wooden porch and the warm welcome of a community of proud islanders. Here, luxury isn’t measured in five stars; it’s found in the quiet moments, swaying in a hammock, salty and sun-warmed, indulging in the art of doing nothing at all.
SABA
Swap sunbathing for striking landscapes, hiking and diving in Saba. Nicknamed the ‘Unspoiled Queen,’ this tiny Dutch outpost in the Northern Caribbean is the summit of a dormant volcano. Defined by sheer sea cliffs and rugged terrain, the island has no beaches; its appeal lies in its dramatic mountains, quaint villages and protected seas.
A network of 20 hand-built trails leads hikers through rainforest and misty cloud forest to the summit of Mount Scenery where panoramic views of the rugged coastline and neighbouring islands unfold.
Encircled by a Marine Park, Saba is a world-class diving destination. Beneath the waves, the volcanic activity of the past has given rise to an otherworldly seascape of sheer pinnacles and spires, seamounts, caves and tunnels where nutrient-rich waters teem with marine life.
On land, Saba’s four villages feel like they were lifted from the pages of a storybook: gingerbread cottages with red-painted roofs, green shutters and neatly tended gardens
are draped across lush hillsides. On an island with only 2000 welcoming residents and just
a handful of boutique hotels, within days, visitors to Saba feel like part of the community.
The most rewarding corners of the Caribbean aren’t always the easiest to reach. But for those willing to choose the road less travelled, the reward is far greater, it’s the chance to experience a Caribbean that still feels wild, authentic and untouched.